Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Flight issues
So as half expected, Kuwait air is not going to get me home. Aer lingus for 850 was the next option. I was shooting for the 30th and then leanne told me I could stay with her until the first, and strangely enough to Oreos night is juls dinner birthday. It's like it is meant to be haha. Got a cheap dream ticket, but again waiting for the confirmation. The flight is confirmed but there are problems with my card and the payment and I think it is because the cheap tickets booking is stil pending, even though it won't be charged. I still havnt gotten a response from Iceland express, but I will go to the desk tomorrow to get the information I need. Please actually stay online if any of you care about me, because you have all abandoned me, in case I need a card number or something last minute. If it's more than this I probably will not be coming home until rig before I leave again because I need at least a week to find another deal like this. Thanks !
Spanish adeventure. The conclusion of my journey.
Alright, where to begin with 12 days in Spain. Well almost all of it in Spain. I will try my best to jog my memory, if that is even an expression, and fill you despite the fact that I spent the night in the airport with pat on the floor from 2 to 5 and it is now going on 8.
The journey began, after another airport sleep over, waiting for Pat to arrive. Sook him out right as he came out of the arrival gate. Refreshing, seeing a familiar face I must say. We made our way back to downtown, where I had wandered around the night before for a little, to pizza de sol and found our hostel, equity point. We wandered around the city for a little before we could actually go up to our room. It's a pleasant city, with fewer monuments than most, but neat little streets full of cervazearas and tapas bars. We hit up the cafeteria, little pop, tapas bar across the street before settling in. The hostels here are quite different than most and it is rare to find dorm style beds. Being the two of us it was simple enough just splitting a double most of the time. I am actually sitting in the lobby of the same hostel now, where I did manage to find a five room dorm, for a night in a bed before sleeping in the airport again. After wandering around in Madrid we retired to our chamber and slumbered until about eleven when we decided to get up and see the bustle in the streets. This would be a theme these two nights in Madrid. We didn't go in anywhere, and didn't really need to. We could walk around with the crowd and just buy 1€ cervezas from the guys walking around selling them out of a plastic bag, when needed. We finally went to bed around 5, just before the party usually dies down in Spain. We woke up the following morning to do one of the free walking tours, conveniently leaving form our hostel. On this tour we met one other girl from our hostel, Erica, from Malta, which by the way is an independent country from Italy, has it's own language as well as English. Just to clarify for all of us who did not know. The tour guide was a nice younger guy from Switzerland. It was only two hours with some brief history and stops by the main monuments. Not as thorough as most, but I feel as though Madrid is somewhere you just wander around and get a feel for on your own. He did bring us to a nunnery, where the nuns are sworn to an oath of silence, except when selling there century old cookies, not the actual cookies but the recipe. They were delicious holy cookies. We were joined by an American kid on his own matt as well along the tour. When we returned, despite feeling a bit rough and exhausted we went around with the guide and matt to a tapas tour. In Spain when you get a drink it is customary usually to get a tapas with it. These specific tapas for example were some sort of seasoned ground beef with slices of small baguette bread, which usually comes with tapas, a little mini plate of paella, a Spanish rice dish, and cherizo and port at other bars. Tapas pretty much small portions, usually little sandwiches or open face on a piece of bread, that the bar gives you with your drink. Some are better than others, and some far larger, you can usually make a meal out of it if you drink enough. We stayed at the final bar for some good sangria and finally one last sangria and tapa at the cafeteria before crashing. We woke up in time to make the pub crawl, but were met by erika and matt, and decided to have a night out on our own. Erica is a riot. Crazy little social butterfly, dragging us around to all the promoters nasty sugary free drink deals, then finally to a 5$mojito place with bomb tapas. I was still a bit astonished by the free food. The next spot was 5€ buckets of beer, which we couldn't quite get our hands on. We pretty much struck out with beers in legitimate establishments by this point. When erika managed to fen angle herself a beer from a group of mexicans, working in Spain, our group seriously multiplied. We all randomly joined forces,and what else, drank beer in the streets of the sketchy street salesmen. There were a couple spaniards, some mexicans, and erika from Malta. It was good entertainment for the evening. We made our way back to the hostel where the three of us grinder hard on some 24 hour pizza, then off to a few hours sleep before check in and a five hour bus trip to Granada. This was of course not planned until we showed up tot the bus station the following afternoon, worn out. Buses are pretty consistent in Spain, and seem as reliable and utilised as the trains. Off to Granada we set of on Saturday, after two nights in Madrid, last minute reading up on the highlights of the city, and waiting to arrive to find a place to stay. Pat was just winging everything with me, it was nice, and usually went smoothly, or about as smoothly as not planning anything can go at least:).
The scenery once we were in the south of Spain was really incredible. When we finally arrived in Granada, the girl at the information desk gave us a map clearly marking all the places that need to be seen, which pat left behind....we won't go there hahaha:)..., and set us up with a guest house because most of the hostels were full. They had a room we could split. We wandered through the old cobble stone streets, some of which are so narrow they are pretty much sidewalks with signs, to the really sweet ladies house. From there she led us to a charming guest house with a little courtyard right when you walked in, a huge garden, and a lovely back room. A traditional Spanish house I presume. It was really neat. She was very lax, and we just paid as we stayed day to day. It was relaxing. That night we just walked around the main piaza nuevos, and had a dinner of free ham sandwiches and fries with our cervezas. Yes I gave in and ate meat, and more of it in the last week than in the last year without a doubt. When in rome.... We went to bed as early as we could manage, so we could wake up early and ensure getting tickets to the Alhambra. This is the most impressive and last standing moorish kingdom. It thrived in Granada until Christian reconquesta in 1400 something. I believe in the rest of Spain this occurred in many of the other southern moorish areas in the late 1100s or early 1200s from what I looked at.
We set of for Alhambra bright and early Sunday through a giant arch and past a lovely park. We beat the crowd got a ticket and began our wandering. Alhambra is made up like a fortress with a palace, medina or little city, and the fortress Walls surrounding it. I cannot remember the exact names, because someone left the maps behind, I'll drop it, but we went to the palace first. I believe it was nasdid nazid...something like that. Absolutely stunning. The walls were covered in intricate tiles. Some rooms were delicately hand carved Walls, and intricate doorways. The ceiling were like this hand carved plaster or something, or entirely wood full of patterns and deigns. The building itself was the most astonishing piece of art, with no need for frecoes, painting or decoration. Honestly one of the most impressive things I've seen throughout my entire trip. After walking through this marvel we went to see the massive fortress, which had an amazing view of the city. The cathedral is beautiful from afar and the little White, terracotta roofed houses of the remaining moorish quarter sprinkle all through the valley behind Granada. A really neat city. Straight back from piazza Nuevo there is a very large winding, cobble stoned street nieghorhood, which is one of the last moorish or Muslim quarters. Behind that are the caves, and still occupied dwellings of the gypsys that had migrated here. Combining with the Muslim and Spanish culture, there own unique style of flamenco was born, zambra, in which the dancers also sing. We circled down from the fortress over to the impressive garden of alhambra, filled with fountains, and peach and lemon trees, water stairs, in which the railings flowed down with water, and the old systems which allowed for this to happen. It was all so incredible and impressive. We returned to piazza nuevos for our drink and tapa sampling of the afternoon. It is almost as if you are entitled to it. We also tried a drink we were curious to see a lot of local drinking with lunch, where they would pour what looked like soda water into there wine. In fact that is exactly what they were doing. Vino e calara, or wine and soda water. Delightful. We were pretty exhausted for the day, so keeping with the culture, retired to a siesta. It was not the warmest weather when we were there. A little drizzly at night, outside of our room, probably because moat of the house was open, was freezing, and the hot water didn't go a long way. Because of this, we decided to head to the Arab baths just between he piazza and the foot of the old moorish quarter. So nice. They were dimly lit, and you entered through the changing room of the appropriate sex. In the girls changing room there were little curtained rooms and heated tile floors. When you came out the different pools were through the different little door archways, delicious tea was in the first seating area. The whole place was steamy, smelled like incense and was very dimly lit. It was amazing. They had a cold bath, a long shallow hot bath, a larger mid chest deep medium bath, arm stone to lay on, steam room, and six beds in the back where they called you in by number for a massage. This definitely warmed us up. The message was spectacular and relaxing..I do t think I've ever had one. They use strong scented oils, then you shower off and get back into the baths after a thorough leg and back rub. We stayed until it almost closed, being that we were in the last time slot at 8 three hours prior. Now we could sleep soundly and stay warm.
The next day we explored the moorish quarter, and first went all the way back to the gypsy area, and to see the caves set behind it in sacramonte. As you wandered along the cobble stone street perched along side the valley, with a great view of Alhambra across on the other side pretty much the whole way, you saw all the little White houses built within and on top of one another winding up the mountain side. The cobble stone street started to wind up as well. There were a few caves sprinkled in between right from the start, some bars and painted zambra billboards in front of quant little White bars, and Yuma and cactus plants winding and weaving between it all. Very picturesque. The old city wall cut up the hill side just before this area, and caves, along with modern day hippy encampments, and squatters of the caves were along the mountain top just on the outside of it. We would hike up there throughout he dirt paths later, after first going to the museo de interpretation gyspy. Museum for the interpretation of gypsys. This nestled at the fattest top point of the little neighbourhood, and was advertised by what looked like a sheet spray painted for the sign. They had collected crafts, and set up some of the caves that remained there, with history, stories and pictures of the residents in the museum as well as some history on gypsys influence on flamenco or zambra. This was so fascinating. We walked by a couple residential caves on the way up, with curtains hanging from the door and windows, a couple dogs, an old sweet gypsy man walking back and forth and then scootering around through town. This particular nomadic group of Roma people settle and integrated into the moorish and Spanish culture, but as we saw there were still a few cave dwellers. As for the collection of caves at the top, that had not been filed in, they attracted romantic travellers of the early nineteenth century, hippy like settlements and are still occupied. As I said after this museum we wandered up the dirt paths and got a good view. Everyone was friendly and it didn't seem that uncomfortable to be wandering through such a different community. So fascinating really. After this we wandered throughout the moorish quarter, to see there piazzas and winding streets. We stopped by saint peters? I think chapel or something, to get a remarkable view straight across the valley eye level with Alhambra. We then wandered back down to town with the last rain of the day to see the cathedral. This was massive, the second biggest in Spain, and incredible. It had an all gold alter, chapels all around the outside of impressive intricate decoration, high pillars of White, massive organs and impressive artwork. One of the coolest cathedrals I had seen, and very interesting how the style was so unique of most of the other I had seen across Europe. Within each country the styles of religious art and cathedral architecture are all different. You can notice right away, even though I have no knowledge of this.
We wove back down and crashed. When we woke up we went to, an Irish pub to get Internet because it was so late, they're everywhere, and planned our next stop. We decided we would take the train to Cadiz. A southern Spain town on the water. From there we would either try to take the bus from Cadiz to Tarifa and then ferry to morocco for a day, or stop in Seville. We set of first thing in the morning, where our theme on chasing down and running to find the train or bus stop sort of began. This would only progress as the trip went on. We gave in and got a taxi to be sure we were on the right track, without a map and all:). This was after three nights in Granada on Tuesday morning.
We got to Cadiz with enough time to get a room for two nights, as we had decided on Morocco, and a whole afternoon to explore the town. It had emasculate park gardens, and lovely walks along the water, with remnants of old castles and fortress Walls. The city and city maps were conveniently marked with lines for different historical walks you could do, making it very organised. Along the way we saw a little tapas bar where we were stopped in our tracks by the bartender belting out over the bar to an entrapped older lady. This turned out to be the neatest little joint. We got some wine, pat finally got his croquettas, which are little fried balls of something, some amazing potato and onion salad. The place was adorned with bull fighting pictures and advertisements. He himself had been a bull fighter when he was younger and there were his bull heads and horns strewn throughout, as well as his blue traditional outfit in a glass case. It was very musty but so authentic. He was a flamenco singer as well, which is why he was moaning out to the lady, who was just so impressed and enthralled by him, in his raspy deep voice. True definition of a Spanish stud. Although now he is probably in his mid fifties, he's still got it.
We signed up for the flamenco show so we would not miss this southern Spanish tradition. They are held in small bars, so it is usually important to have a reservation, although this time of year was extremely slow. We got some bread, roasted red peppers and amazing cheese to save ourselves on dinner out before going. Spain is extremely cheap compared to most places I have been so far. We had a make shift dinner and wine at the hostel and headed out. The bar was set up with a few tables in front of a small stage. They give you a drink for the show. It will be hard to describe the whole experience as it truly was breath taking. At the start there was only us and one other couple, but they perform so passionately still. It begins with just the Spanish guitar and the male singer. Mind blowing. The singer belts out with, what I began to assume is the desirable raspy flamenco voice. It really entrances you. So skilled. The dancers join later. It is all a performance of passion and you are really entranced for it. One dancer stood out to me amongst all the rest because of her composure and the passionate facial expressions she had, so intense. They all were remarkable. It is a lot of swaying and bending and strong postures and movements and then some rapid speed high heeled tap dancing almost. They are exhausted after, but still maintain there composure, all dancing and constantly focusing on the music and singing. The Spanish guitar is one of the most beautiful sounding instruments and his fingers dance around on it so fast it's hard to believe someone had devised this technique to produce music. It was intense and breath taking, and I am so glad we experienced it. We hit the hay and got a little bit of a slow start to Tarifa for the ferry. This whole trip didn't go as smoothly as a lot, but was so worth it. Such an interesting cultural experience.
We set off on the bus at 10:30 and couldn't get tickets until the two o clock ferry, which was suppose to be 35 minutes. Bull. We gained an hour going to morocco however. We hung around the little town until we could go to the ferry the port. It is actually the wind surfing capital. We also got the most amazing treat by default. Pats addiction to chocolate donuts paid off, be UAE the one we go from the bar to bring with us was not only chocolate covered, but nutella filled. Most succulent little ball of sugary chocolate. We set off for the opposite African coast on Wednesday, outside on the deck the whole first part of the trip, because the last two days had been so charming and sunny. This of course back firing on us because the two of us and the one other girl outside taking pictures did not hear that you are to get your passport stamped before leaving the ferry not actually at customs which would make sense. While everyone unloaded the three of us had to wait for the police officer to come back and stamp it. English is not as common ly known in Spain as it was in some other European countries making it hard to actually collect information needed. We made our way through port customs, constantly haggled by people trying to sell themselves as guides. They really just follow you around. Outmof the three languages on the postings and signs, English doesn't make the cut. The city weaves up a hill side in front of the port. You kind of just find you way up and walk in. Here is where toothless wondered set his eyes on us and dragged us around with no escaping him no matter which way we turned. He just sped walked us through the sights, because it really is small, with little explanation, kept giving us false information of us needing him because it was dangerous. I was so Leary of him because I knew he would just follow us until we gave him money. He urged us to go check out a nice hotel and I gave in. Once inside the British owner ran over and whispered to us, did he lead you hear. So funny. He was amazingly helpful. He explained how they worked, because my rude blatant we don't want you to follow us or even be near us comments didn't work. He said just give him some money, be firm, and he assured us it was very safe, police all throughout the city, very friendly people, aside form the haggling tour guides, and gave us a map with some detailed information. We marched out ready, and I gave him five euro and some change and held my ground as he asked for me, and told him to get away. It is hard to give them money for bothering you, when an honest working person in this cities daily wages are only 10€ a day on average.
The city itself was just neat, yet a little uncomfortable at first, to wander through. It is of course a Muslim culture. They wear the long tunic type shirts. The mosques are sprinkled throughout. The Market place is all throughout he narrow corridor and cobble stone streets of the medina or little old town. Arab style arch ways. It was so cool to experience. The people were lovely as well. The man at his fruit stand just gave me an orange when I went to give him change for it. There was a neat little trade shop with all sort of bronze, ceramic, and glass crafts, old swords and guns. It was like a neat little shop out of Harry potter as the British man had told us in his hotel. We just spent the day wandering, warding off unwanted guides, and taking it in. Wandering through exotic little markets and shops. We went up to the las ah that overlooked the ocean back towards Spain. After stopping in some shops and realizing that time flew by and we missed the ferry that would ensure us a bus trip back to Cadiz, at five o clock there time, with the time change going back an hour, we sook out a place to eat. When we slowly wandered past a little local looking shop someone catching us gazing in urged us in. The shop keeper was a tall friendly man and so were those working for him. They spoke a few words of English. It was set up like a tiny cafe, with a short deli like counter, where you picked your fish or chicken, they obviously dont eat pork here, whichnis like Spain's food staple I think. We selected it and they sat us down and treat us. They had the best olives. They had little bowls of this chicken broth type soup mixed with spices and olive oil to dip these warm fresh pita shaped bread loaves in. This alone would have satisfied me. Everything was so wonderful tasting. This was probably my favourite meal. I love the tradition of eating everything this with your hands as well. Even when you get the fist you just grub up your hands tearing apart little pieces and dipping it in whatever sauces they give you. We had to rush off to the ferry unfortunately, but they made us this tall glass of hot tea just before. All the flavours of everything were so intense. The best tea I've ever tasted with fresh mint leaves and herbs added to it. Too hot to drink it before departing but so glad to have gotten to taste it. We just said yes to everything they asked and they set it in front of us. All the people in there were locals picking apart there food with there hands watching the news in Arabic. It was so cool, and probably one of my favourite meals of the whole trip. They were so genuine and honest. There were no prices posted and it was only 350 kuwalha or whatever they use, which is the equivalent of 3.50€ for a feast we could not even finish. When we asked which way to the port, because as usually we were pushing the limits on arriving places in time. We barely caught the bus by five minutes in Cadiz, had already forgotten to keep track of time for the one ferry and now gave ourselves a half an hour to wander in the dark through a town we were unfamiliar with and got lost in even during the day. They hardly understood us but ran into the streets, which were a zoo by the way, to find us a way there. They asked a little cabby but he couldn't so they randomly found some little sweet man who told him he'd take us there and handed us off to him. Such a strange system. This place was a jungle. Luckily we had the help, we'd of been screwed. Sayyid, gladly led us to where we needed to go, with seemingly no expectation of money and was very grateful for the five. So sweet. The shop keeper and sayyid were a good note to leave off on, assuring me again that there are truly kind people everywhere below the surface. Later morocco. We sprinted of course to customs and to the boat, catching it right in time.
We had a little incident with the bus schedule going missing somehow so were a little nervous about he ferry leaving a half an hour late and taking an extra half an hour over it's estimated time ot actaully arrive. We literally sprinted to the bus stop as fast as we could where to our dismay we had missed the last bus by fifteen minutes. We hustled back thinking we may find a way back to Cadiz but had to face the fact that despite our belongings in a room in Cadiz, we'd have to crash at a cheap hostel in tariff and catch the first bus back to Cadiz at 7am to be there by check out. When we got back to Cadiz it was a scramble to find our way to Toledo. It was thrusday and pat left Saturday, or so we still thought at this point. We missed all the only morning trains that would of connected us and probably been very expensive, so of course w head to catch the next bus in forty minutes to Sevilla, to catch the only connection at another bus stop across the city at 2:15, to make the bus back to Madrid which was a dreadful 6 and. A half hour trip past Toledo on top of the five hours on buses between all of these cities and wait time in between and then finally catch a bus or train to Toledo. We got our work out in of the day, this time with fifty pound on my back, sprinting to the bus in Cadiz making it by mere minutes. Literally they were closing the luggage storage and had to reopen it for us. Absurd. We couldn't manage to shake this trend. we got a quick tour of Sevilla on the bus shooting across the city to the other bus stop. We made it in to Madrid by about 8and got a bullet train for 9:50 to Toledo, getting us there by 10:30. Just enough time to settle in wander around and get some dinner before a day of exploring. We ended out night with kebabs. The most tasty mediterranean sandwiche type pitas with either chicken, meat, or falafel. Everywhere in Europe.
The city was brightly lit from a distance. The alcazar and the cathedral towered at the top of the old medieval city. It was all on top of a hill surrounded by Walls. You had to cross a bridge and walk up steps to enter the city. It was all stone and cobble stone streets again. Bars along a few of the more open streets. Fire in the middle of the table at a few. Yet again another fascinating Spanish city. We explored the streets. Another maze like winding circular, confusingly small city. It's good to just get lost and wander. The next day we set of thinking it would be pats last day. Se started with a suggested spot for tapas. With a glass of wine each of us got the first tapa which was crab meat atop the bread with pieces of crispy think ham. with the next another delicious little morsel. We went to the Santa cruz museum first, which despite there being an El Grecco museum in Toledo, was filled with his work and free of charge. From here we made a few stops and wandered around the Market. Our eventual goal to go into the cathedral, which stayed open when everything else would close down early for siesta, so we saved it until the afternoon. Pat had some suggestions from a friend whonhad studied abroad there and we did our best to head the advise, if finding the tapas bar, getting more drinks and free food counts. We finally made it to the cathedral. This is one of the most famous in Toledo. Toledo, and where I read the phrase "holy Toledo" came from, was a multiple religious community. Here atop it's hill to Eros Christian, Jewish and moorish communities lived in harmony. There is a synagogue and museum here as well, there are streams of Moorish influence and of course christian, which a remarkable cathedral tower in the middle of the town. It is gothic in style. I cannot really describe it, but can show you all when I get home, with my pictures. It was beautiful. There were detailed sculptures across the ceilings and in the center. Again will have to show you. We concluded the day with some marzipan, which are the cookies or dessert known here. They tast like raw cookie dough. They are so good. We caught a bus back to the train station once we got out bags, and arrived for the last train, unbeknownst to us, fifteen minutes before it's departure. And headed to the Madrid airport to spend the night before Pat's early flight. After a freezing cold night on the floor, and no luck getting no information on him changing a flight we reluctantly headed to check in. To my astonishment he got out of line and asked when the office would be open so he could speak to someone about the possibility of changing his flight. Wow. They got there ten minutes later, and it was relatively inexpensive to stay until Tuesday. I was excited. Once it was all straightened out we headed off first thing Saturday morning on a long trio to Portugal, which I I had no information on. Another blind adventure but Pat threw himself right in it again. It was all so much fun. The bus ride was long. We had a forty minute break at a rest stop bar haha. When we arrived in Lisbon I didn't even know exactly where it stood geographically on the map, the train station was huge, and I had no idea where to begin finding out way through the massive city. I heard Porto was a neat city in Portugal. Literally only heard, and could not even recall where from. I saw a train was leaving in five minutes. So after giving Lisbon about a two minute chance I ran urgently to the ticket counter to get a ticket to a city, I thought was just on the other side of the bay and sprinted to a train with Pat. Later we realised that I had us traverse the entire coast of Portugal all the way the the most northern major city. So ridiculous, but well worth the laugh and the visit to the city. Everything about any ones trip is unique and there's. So no matter where you go, what you experience, how you get there and what you see it is always different from someone else's. This was truly our own little random adventure.
We arrived at the first train station in Porto, and had we known, would have gotten on another train with our ticket to get the the downtown area. We didn't however, and we arrived in a shabby ass little dump. I was a little nervous I had heard wrong. We saw some sketchy little dive hotels and I can't believe it, but the thought actually crossed our mind to give up and stay there. I Medes internet. After an entire day of travel after a night on the airport floor and then dragging pat onto another almost three hour train to the middle of no where I had to find something. I found Internet against a wall when we ran into a metro stop and searched hostels. They are usually concentrated in areas where people visit. On the sites they had metro directions and we got ourselves to the downtown area of Porto. Now this was stunning. The cities in Portugal are very classy and wealthy looking in the centres mixed with traditional houses and apartments. Porto was such a beautiful town. We gave up finding a hostel and had a cab drive us around in a circle to get one, which ended up being really nice. It was more like the youth hostels I was used to, so I'm glad pat got to see that. With common rooms, a kitchen, helpful staff and activities from the hostel. We got some pizza and went to bed. We woke up early, and had gained an hour again. We started walking through town looking for suggestions from the guy at our hostel. It is all the historical city between the piazza we we were north going south all the way to the river. We looked for the book store, that is suppose to be one of the most famous in europe and where a lot of scenes from Harry potter were filmed. It was closed but we could peer in and see a little, with the winding staircase. The open pizzas had short royal palm trees and fountains, with of course churches sprinkled throughout. A different style with tiled Walls. Very Portuguese I guess. The streets of the old town were line with apartment buildings of ren, green, blue, yellow beautiful tiled Walls. There were look out points you'd randomly run into at the ends of streets. This city was so unique to many that I had seen before. It was a gorgeous view over the river. Cable cars ran over the top from high above. When we got down to the river there were all sorts of tables and people selling there crafts. They had some of the nicer things ive seen, like actual hand knit scarves, and jewerly. They all sat along the river peacefully, not hassling you as you strolled along and looked. A very nice change of pace. The boats lining the river were replicas of the old wine boats with barrels of wine sitting on there decks. The city is known for it's wine. Some of the best in the world, port wine. These boats probably would have been used to take the grapes a d wine from the eastern side of the river where the vineyards of the wineries in Porto were located in the microclimates of the mountains and valleys. Across from all the river side bars, charming apartments with clothes strewn across all the lines were the wineries and where the old caves were where they stored and barrelled the wine. as you looked up and down the river there were so many cool metal bridges. All different shapes and some standing far higher than others, just weaving down the river. I loved this town. We crossed the bridge to go to the wineries. Here we went to one of the most famous at three. In was taylors and was found in the 1600s I believe. Inside there were tables and chairs made out of old barrels and a circus type ceiling tent. They let us sample a red and White for free. They also had. A fee tour a half an hour later which was very informative. They gave a history of Port wine, most of which I don't remember, but the area was one of the first to bottle and produce wine the way we know it today from wineries, and is renowned as one of the best in the world. The prices reflect this. It is mixed with a liquor and is very sweet due to there attention to detail in the fermentation process, preserving the sweet and strong alcohol content. After one more glass we shared of 20 year old wine over some old cheese, like kid you not, when we wanted to know the name it translated to old cheese, we set of to try to catch the sunset over the ocean. The tourism office lady pointed us to a completely wring bus blatantly. We were lost and assisted by a little old lady who took us to a bus, not speaking a lick of English explained our situation and were carted through town until he pointed out a bus that would take us to Faz, which was the beach as we gathered from what the old lady wrote on the map. Another old man got us on another bus and we were finally after nearly missing the entire sunset on our way. The old people in Portugal are astonishingly nice and helpful haha. We caught the last bit of the bright orange sunset of the Atlantic. It was gorgeous. We then walked along the well decorated sidewalks and down to the beacha little, until we came to the street where we knew would be a straight shot bus ride to our hostel. We were a bit famished after only having our hostel breakfast, a stolen bun and cheese from that and some "very old" cheese with wine. We decided to try a place which was traditional Portuguese as was informed to us by the guy at the hostel. I had a prawn omelette, eggs are common for regular meals, not breakfast, in Spain and Portugal, and pat had a piglet sandwich haha. A bit much for me but a tried. Interesting. We passed out by nine, and woke up with plenty of time to pack and catch the metro right at six for our six forty seven train back to Liboa.
Of course we were running late. The next metro didn't leave for twenty minutes which put us at the same time we were suppose to be there. A mad scramble to find a cab, and made it with a little time to spare, and cheaper than the metro. When we arrived at Liboa oriente where the bus station was connected tothe train station with a half an hour to until our bus left, we didn't get off. We went all the way to the next stop:). With no hope of finding our way to and around on the metro I ran after the conductor from the train we were just on, falling on the steps under the weight of bag back, gaining his attention, and getting the confirmation that, no this train was not going back in the other direction but the trains on the other side of the platform would. We ran to the other side got to the train as the door closed briskly in front of us, got it opened with a second to spare, and headed two more stops in the opposite direction. When we arrived as usually, and keeping with the theme, we caught our bus just in time and set off for the painstaking bus ride back to Madrid, yet again. It went by pretty fast sleeping the entire way, except the first leg to the first rest stop, because our bladders were about to explode from no break between our mad scramble from train to bus. We got our 40 minute bar break, then continued on.
When we got back to Madrid we didn't feel like going straight to the airport so we returned to our old stomping ground to leave our bags at the hostel we had stayed at and wander around the streets a little again. We had our last small cervaza at the cafeteria, where pat finally got to have the cured ham that so appealingly sat behind the glass on top of most of the bars,...sarcasm. It is like a pig jerky. We did a little hop around and got our last kebab for dinner. After we relaxed in the common room at the hostel where I discovered all of my flights had either been changed a day earlier leaving London, which I don't go to until tomorrow, and canceled between Iceland and new York. After seriously contemplating the idea that I could actually possibly be stuck in Europe until the flights were lower than 1500$ in a month or two, pat found me a random last minute Kuwait air flight. Hopefully I get there:). We took off to catch all the last connections on the metro and at 1:02 the last one running to the airport. We settle in nicely on the floor and slept fro. 2 to 5. Pat made it to security and I went to camp out until the metro started running at 6. I came back to the hostel and because it was empty they let me check in for the night at seven for only thirteen bucks. Score. I stayed up to get a free breakfast and passed out until this very moment. It is almost seven and I may try tommake my way to see the Picasso painting, done after he witnessed the nazi bombings ordered under Franco of a civilian town in basque country Spain during the Spanish civil war. The museum is free after 7 and open until ten. Me and pat meant to do this twice. Now on top of this, if I manage to get myself there, I will rub in having a last dinner of 2€ 24 hr pizza. It was fun!
When I go to send this I will see if Leanne wrote me back as to whther or not she is in town so I will stay with her or at least meet up for the night in London, then see if Ian is able to figure a way to his place our for me from JFk, which is a ways from his place, I was suppose to fly Newark originally, and then stay with him Thursday to break up the traveling and hopefully get on a Grey hound home early Friday to Syracuse, on the secondnwhere I expect to see all your excited shining faces.
This was a life changing experience. It restored my faith in people, in myself and all those I love. The world really can be a blissfully beautiful place. Thank you all for your love and support. The things I have been able to see, the trials I have been able to over come and the experiences I have had will have changed me forever. The opportunity to have been able to meet some of the most amazing people and forge lasting friendships with people I genuinely connected with will stand above all else as the most remarkable part of this whole adventure. People of different background and culture who helped open my eyes to something different, deepen my appreciation for life and most of all offer me true and lasting friendship in return. I am humbled by all of these astonishing people. This is something which no price could be put on.
I love you all. Thank you for being with me.
Love,
Sierra
The journey began, after another airport sleep over, waiting for Pat to arrive. Sook him out right as he came out of the arrival gate. Refreshing, seeing a familiar face I must say. We made our way back to downtown, where I had wandered around the night before for a little, to pizza de sol and found our hostel, equity point. We wandered around the city for a little before we could actually go up to our room. It's a pleasant city, with fewer monuments than most, but neat little streets full of cervazearas and tapas bars. We hit up the cafeteria, little pop, tapas bar across the street before settling in. The hostels here are quite different than most and it is rare to find dorm style beds. Being the two of us it was simple enough just splitting a double most of the time. I am actually sitting in the lobby of the same hostel now, where I did manage to find a five room dorm, for a night in a bed before sleeping in the airport again. After wandering around in Madrid we retired to our chamber and slumbered until about eleven when we decided to get up and see the bustle in the streets. This would be a theme these two nights in Madrid. We didn't go in anywhere, and didn't really need to. We could walk around with the crowd and just buy 1€ cervezas from the guys walking around selling them out of a plastic bag, when needed. We finally went to bed around 5, just before the party usually dies down in Spain. We woke up the following morning to do one of the free walking tours, conveniently leaving form our hostel. On this tour we met one other girl from our hostel, Erica, from Malta, which by the way is an independent country from Italy, has it's own language as well as English. Just to clarify for all of us who did not know. The tour guide was a nice younger guy from Switzerland. It was only two hours with some brief history and stops by the main monuments. Not as thorough as most, but I feel as though Madrid is somewhere you just wander around and get a feel for on your own. He did bring us to a nunnery, where the nuns are sworn to an oath of silence, except when selling there century old cookies, not the actual cookies but the recipe. They were delicious holy cookies. We were joined by an American kid on his own matt as well along the tour. When we returned, despite feeling a bit rough and exhausted we went around with the guide and matt to a tapas tour. In Spain when you get a drink it is customary usually to get a tapas with it. These specific tapas for example were some sort of seasoned ground beef with slices of small baguette bread, which usually comes with tapas, a little mini plate of paella, a Spanish rice dish, and cherizo and port at other bars. Tapas pretty much small portions, usually little sandwiches or open face on a piece of bread, that the bar gives you with your drink. Some are better than others, and some far larger, you can usually make a meal out of it if you drink enough. We stayed at the final bar for some good sangria and finally one last sangria and tapa at the cafeteria before crashing. We woke up in time to make the pub crawl, but were met by erika and matt, and decided to have a night out on our own. Erica is a riot. Crazy little social butterfly, dragging us around to all the promoters nasty sugary free drink deals, then finally to a 5$mojito place with bomb tapas. I was still a bit astonished by the free food. The next spot was 5€ buckets of beer, which we couldn't quite get our hands on. We pretty much struck out with beers in legitimate establishments by this point. When erika managed to fen angle herself a beer from a group of mexicans, working in Spain, our group seriously multiplied. We all randomly joined forces,and what else, drank beer in the streets of the sketchy street salesmen. There were a couple spaniards, some mexicans, and erika from Malta. It was good entertainment for the evening. We made our way back to the hostel where the three of us grinder hard on some 24 hour pizza, then off to a few hours sleep before check in and a five hour bus trip to Granada. This was of course not planned until we showed up tot the bus station the following afternoon, worn out. Buses are pretty consistent in Spain, and seem as reliable and utilised as the trains. Off to Granada we set of on Saturday, after two nights in Madrid, last minute reading up on the highlights of the city, and waiting to arrive to find a place to stay. Pat was just winging everything with me, it was nice, and usually went smoothly, or about as smoothly as not planning anything can go at least:).
The scenery once we were in the south of Spain was really incredible. When we finally arrived in Granada, the girl at the information desk gave us a map clearly marking all the places that need to be seen, which pat left behind....we won't go there hahaha:)..., and set us up with a guest house because most of the hostels were full. They had a room we could split. We wandered through the old cobble stone streets, some of which are so narrow they are pretty much sidewalks with signs, to the really sweet ladies house. From there she led us to a charming guest house with a little courtyard right when you walked in, a huge garden, and a lovely back room. A traditional Spanish house I presume. It was really neat. She was very lax, and we just paid as we stayed day to day. It was relaxing. That night we just walked around the main piaza nuevos, and had a dinner of free ham sandwiches and fries with our cervezas. Yes I gave in and ate meat, and more of it in the last week than in the last year without a doubt. When in rome.... We went to bed as early as we could manage, so we could wake up early and ensure getting tickets to the Alhambra. This is the most impressive and last standing moorish kingdom. It thrived in Granada until Christian reconquesta in 1400 something. I believe in the rest of Spain this occurred in many of the other southern moorish areas in the late 1100s or early 1200s from what I looked at.
We set of for Alhambra bright and early Sunday through a giant arch and past a lovely park. We beat the crowd got a ticket and began our wandering. Alhambra is made up like a fortress with a palace, medina or little city, and the fortress Walls surrounding it. I cannot remember the exact names, because someone left the maps behind, I'll drop it, but we went to the palace first. I believe it was nasdid nazid...something like that. Absolutely stunning. The walls were covered in intricate tiles. Some rooms were delicately hand carved Walls, and intricate doorways. The ceiling were like this hand carved plaster or something, or entirely wood full of patterns and deigns. The building itself was the most astonishing piece of art, with no need for frecoes, painting or decoration. Honestly one of the most impressive things I've seen throughout my entire trip. After walking through this marvel we went to see the massive fortress, which had an amazing view of the city. The cathedral is beautiful from afar and the little White, terracotta roofed houses of the remaining moorish quarter sprinkle all through the valley behind Granada. A really neat city. Straight back from piazza Nuevo there is a very large winding, cobble stoned street nieghorhood, which is one of the last moorish or Muslim quarters. Behind that are the caves, and still occupied dwellings of the gypsys that had migrated here. Combining with the Muslim and Spanish culture, there own unique style of flamenco was born, zambra, in which the dancers also sing. We circled down from the fortress over to the impressive garden of alhambra, filled with fountains, and peach and lemon trees, water stairs, in which the railings flowed down with water, and the old systems which allowed for this to happen. It was all so incredible and impressive. We returned to piazza nuevos for our drink and tapa sampling of the afternoon. It is almost as if you are entitled to it. We also tried a drink we were curious to see a lot of local drinking with lunch, where they would pour what looked like soda water into there wine. In fact that is exactly what they were doing. Vino e calara, or wine and soda water. Delightful. We were pretty exhausted for the day, so keeping with the culture, retired to a siesta. It was not the warmest weather when we were there. A little drizzly at night, outside of our room, probably because moat of the house was open, was freezing, and the hot water didn't go a long way. Because of this, we decided to head to the Arab baths just between he piazza and the foot of the old moorish quarter. So nice. They were dimly lit, and you entered through the changing room of the appropriate sex. In the girls changing room there were little curtained rooms and heated tile floors. When you came out the different pools were through the different little door archways, delicious tea was in the first seating area. The whole place was steamy, smelled like incense and was very dimly lit. It was amazing. They had a cold bath, a long shallow hot bath, a larger mid chest deep medium bath, arm stone to lay on, steam room, and six beds in the back where they called you in by number for a massage. This definitely warmed us up. The message was spectacular and relaxing..I do t think I've ever had one. They use strong scented oils, then you shower off and get back into the baths after a thorough leg and back rub. We stayed until it almost closed, being that we were in the last time slot at 8 three hours prior. Now we could sleep soundly and stay warm.
The next day we explored the moorish quarter, and first went all the way back to the gypsy area, and to see the caves set behind it in sacramonte. As you wandered along the cobble stone street perched along side the valley, with a great view of Alhambra across on the other side pretty much the whole way, you saw all the little White houses built within and on top of one another winding up the mountain side. The cobble stone street started to wind up as well. There were a few caves sprinkled in between right from the start, some bars and painted zambra billboards in front of quant little White bars, and Yuma and cactus plants winding and weaving between it all. Very picturesque. The old city wall cut up the hill side just before this area, and caves, along with modern day hippy encampments, and squatters of the caves were along the mountain top just on the outside of it. We would hike up there throughout he dirt paths later, after first going to the museo de interpretation gyspy. Museum for the interpretation of gypsys. This nestled at the fattest top point of the little neighbourhood, and was advertised by what looked like a sheet spray painted for the sign. They had collected crafts, and set up some of the caves that remained there, with history, stories and pictures of the residents in the museum as well as some history on gypsys influence on flamenco or zambra. This was so fascinating. We walked by a couple residential caves on the way up, with curtains hanging from the door and windows, a couple dogs, an old sweet gypsy man walking back and forth and then scootering around through town. This particular nomadic group of Roma people settle and integrated into the moorish and Spanish culture, but as we saw there were still a few cave dwellers. As for the collection of caves at the top, that had not been filed in, they attracted romantic travellers of the early nineteenth century, hippy like settlements and are still occupied. As I said after this museum we wandered up the dirt paths and got a good view. Everyone was friendly and it didn't seem that uncomfortable to be wandering through such a different community. So fascinating really. After this we wandered throughout the moorish quarter, to see there piazzas and winding streets. We stopped by saint peters? I think chapel or something, to get a remarkable view straight across the valley eye level with Alhambra. We then wandered back down to town with the last rain of the day to see the cathedral. This was massive, the second biggest in Spain, and incredible. It had an all gold alter, chapels all around the outside of impressive intricate decoration, high pillars of White, massive organs and impressive artwork. One of the coolest cathedrals I had seen, and very interesting how the style was so unique of most of the other I had seen across Europe. Within each country the styles of religious art and cathedral architecture are all different. You can notice right away, even though I have no knowledge of this.
We wove back down and crashed. When we woke up we went to, an Irish pub to get Internet because it was so late, they're everywhere, and planned our next stop. We decided we would take the train to Cadiz. A southern Spain town on the water. From there we would either try to take the bus from Cadiz to Tarifa and then ferry to morocco for a day, or stop in Seville. We set of first thing in the morning, where our theme on chasing down and running to find the train or bus stop sort of began. This would only progress as the trip went on. We gave in and got a taxi to be sure we were on the right track, without a map and all:). This was after three nights in Granada on Tuesday morning.
We got to Cadiz with enough time to get a room for two nights, as we had decided on Morocco, and a whole afternoon to explore the town. It had emasculate park gardens, and lovely walks along the water, with remnants of old castles and fortress Walls. The city and city maps were conveniently marked with lines for different historical walks you could do, making it very organised. Along the way we saw a little tapas bar where we were stopped in our tracks by the bartender belting out over the bar to an entrapped older lady. This turned out to be the neatest little joint. We got some wine, pat finally got his croquettas, which are little fried balls of something, some amazing potato and onion salad. The place was adorned with bull fighting pictures and advertisements. He himself had been a bull fighter when he was younger and there were his bull heads and horns strewn throughout, as well as his blue traditional outfit in a glass case. It was very musty but so authentic. He was a flamenco singer as well, which is why he was moaning out to the lady, who was just so impressed and enthralled by him, in his raspy deep voice. True definition of a Spanish stud. Although now he is probably in his mid fifties, he's still got it.
We signed up for the flamenco show so we would not miss this southern Spanish tradition. They are held in small bars, so it is usually important to have a reservation, although this time of year was extremely slow. We got some bread, roasted red peppers and amazing cheese to save ourselves on dinner out before going. Spain is extremely cheap compared to most places I have been so far. We had a make shift dinner and wine at the hostel and headed out. The bar was set up with a few tables in front of a small stage. They give you a drink for the show. It will be hard to describe the whole experience as it truly was breath taking. At the start there was only us and one other couple, but they perform so passionately still. It begins with just the Spanish guitar and the male singer. Mind blowing. The singer belts out with, what I began to assume is the desirable raspy flamenco voice. It really entrances you. So skilled. The dancers join later. It is all a performance of passion and you are really entranced for it. One dancer stood out to me amongst all the rest because of her composure and the passionate facial expressions she had, so intense. They all were remarkable. It is a lot of swaying and bending and strong postures and movements and then some rapid speed high heeled tap dancing almost. They are exhausted after, but still maintain there composure, all dancing and constantly focusing on the music and singing. The Spanish guitar is one of the most beautiful sounding instruments and his fingers dance around on it so fast it's hard to believe someone had devised this technique to produce music. It was intense and breath taking, and I am so glad we experienced it. We hit the hay and got a little bit of a slow start to Tarifa for the ferry. This whole trip didn't go as smoothly as a lot, but was so worth it. Such an interesting cultural experience.
We set off on the bus at 10:30 and couldn't get tickets until the two o clock ferry, which was suppose to be 35 minutes. Bull. We gained an hour going to morocco however. We hung around the little town until we could go to the ferry the port. It is actually the wind surfing capital. We also got the most amazing treat by default. Pats addiction to chocolate donuts paid off, be UAE the one we go from the bar to bring with us was not only chocolate covered, but nutella filled. Most succulent little ball of sugary chocolate. We set off for the opposite African coast on Wednesday, outside on the deck the whole first part of the trip, because the last two days had been so charming and sunny. This of course back firing on us because the two of us and the one other girl outside taking pictures did not hear that you are to get your passport stamped before leaving the ferry not actually at customs which would make sense. While everyone unloaded the three of us had to wait for the police officer to come back and stamp it. English is not as common ly known in Spain as it was in some other European countries making it hard to actually collect information needed. We made our way through port customs, constantly haggled by people trying to sell themselves as guides. They really just follow you around. Outmof the three languages on the postings and signs, English doesn't make the cut. The city weaves up a hill side in front of the port. You kind of just find you way up and walk in. Here is where toothless wondered set his eyes on us and dragged us around with no escaping him no matter which way we turned. He just sped walked us through the sights, because it really is small, with little explanation, kept giving us false information of us needing him because it was dangerous. I was so Leary of him because I knew he would just follow us until we gave him money. He urged us to go check out a nice hotel and I gave in. Once inside the British owner ran over and whispered to us, did he lead you hear. So funny. He was amazingly helpful. He explained how they worked, because my rude blatant we don't want you to follow us or even be near us comments didn't work. He said just give him some money, be firm, and he assured us it was very safe, police all throughout the city, very friendly people, aside form the haggling tour guides, and gave us a map with some detailed information. We marched out ready, and I gave him five euro and some change and held my ground as he asked for me, and told him to get away. It is hard to give them money for bothering you, when an honest working person in this cities daily wages are only 10€ a day on average.
The city itself was just neat, yet a little uncomfortable at first, to wander through. It is of course a Muslim culture. They wear the long tunic type shirts. The mosques are sprinkled throughout. The Market place is all throughout he narrow corridor and cobble stone streets of the medina or little old town. Arab style arch ways. It was so cool to experience. The people were lovely as well. The man at his fruit stand just gave me an orange when I went to give him change for it. There was a neat little trade shop with all sort of bronze, ceramic, and glass crafts, old swords and guns. It was like a neat little shop out of Harry potter as the British man had told us in his hotel. We just spent the day wandering, warding off unwanted guides, and taking it in. Wandering through exotic little markets and shops. We went up to the las ah that overlooked the ocean back towards Spain. After stopping in some shops and realizing that time flew by and we missed the ferry that would ensure us a bus trip back to Cadiz, at five o clock there time, with the time change going back an hour, we sook out a place to eat. When we slowly wandered past a little local looking shop someone catching us gazing in urged us in. The shop keeper was a tall friendly man and so were those working for him. They spoke a few words of English. It was set up like a tiny cafe, with a short deli like counter, where you picked your fish or chicken, they obviously dont eat pork here, whichnis like Spain's food staple I think. We selected it and they sat us down and treat us. They had the best olives. They had little bowls of this chicken broth type soup mixed with spices and olive oil to dip these warm fresh pita shaped bread loaves in. This alone would have satisfied me. Everything was so wonderful tasting. This was probably my favourite meal. I love the tradition of eating everything this with your hands as well. Even when you get the fist you just grub up your hands tearing apart little pieces and dipping it in whatever sauces they give you. We had to rush off to the ferry unfortunately, but they made us this tall glass of hot tea just before. All the flavours of everything were so intense. The best tea I've ever tasted with fresh mint leaves and herbs added to it. Too hot to drink it before departing but so glad to have gotten to taste it. We just said yes to everything they asked and they set it in front of us. All the people in there were locals picking apart there food with there hands watching the news in Arabic. It was so cool, and probably one of my favourite meals of the whole trip. They were so genuine and honest. There were no prices posted and it was only 350 kuwalha or whatever they use, which is the equivalent of 3.50€ for a feast we could not even finish. When we asked which way to the port, because as usually we were pushing the limits on arriving places in time. We barely caught the bus by five minutes in Cadiz, had already forgotten to keep track of time for the one ferry and now gave ourselves a half an hour to wander in the dark through a town we were unfamiliar with and got lost in even during the day. They hardly understood us but ran into the streets, which were a zoo by the way, to find us a way there. They asked a little cabby but he couldn't so they randomly found some little sweet man who told him he'd take us there and handed us off to him. Such a strange system. This place was a jungle. Luckily we had the help, we'd of been screwed. Sayyid, gladly led us to where we needed to go, with seemingly no expectation of money and was very grateful for the five. So sweet. The shop keeper and sayyid were a good note to leave off on, assuring me again that there are truly kind people everywhere below the surface. Later morocco. We sprinted of course to customs and to the boat, catching it right in time.
We had a little incident with the bus schedule going missing somehow so were a little nervous about he ferry leaving a half an hour late and taking an extra half an hour over it's estimated time ot actaully arrive. We literally sprinted to the bus stop as fast as we could where to our dismay we had missed the last bus by fifteen minutes. We hustled back thinking we may find a way back to Cadiz but had to face the fact that despite our belongings in a room in Cadiz, we'd have to crash at a cheap hostel in tariff and catch the first bus back to Cadiz at 7am to be there by check out. When we got back to Cadiz it was a scramble to find our way to Toledo. It was thrusday and pat left Saturday, or so we still thought at this point. We missed all the only morning trains that would of connected us and probably been very expensive, so of course w head to catch the next bus in forty minutes to Sevilla, to catch the only connection at another bus stop across the city at 2:15, to make the bus back to Madrid which was a dreadful 6 and. A half hour trip past Toledo on top of the five hours on buses between all of these cities and wait time in between and then finally catch a bus or train to Toledo. We got our work out in of the day, this time with fifty pound on my back, sprinting to the bus in Cadiz making it by mere minutes. Literally they were closing the luggage storage and had to reopen it for us. Absurd. We couldn't manage to shake this trend. we got a quick tour of Sevilla on the bus shooting across the city to the other bus stop. We made it in to Madrid by about 8and got a bullet train for 9:50 to Toledo, getting us there by 10:30. Just enough time to settle in wander around and get some dinner before a day of exploring. We ended out night with kebabs. The most tasty mediterranean sandwiche type pitas with either chicken, meat, or falafel. Everywhere in Europe.
The city was brightly lit from a distance. The alcazar and the cathedral towered at the top of the old medieval city. It was all on top of a hill surrounded by Walls. You had to cross a bridge and walk up steps to enter the city. It was all stone and cobble stone streets again. Bars along a few of the more open streets. Fire in the middle of the table at a few. Yet again another fascinating Spanish city. We explored the streets. Another maze like winding circular, confusingly small city. It's good to just get lost and wander. The next day we set of thinking it would be pats last day. Se started with a suggested spot for tapas. With a glass of wine each of us got the first tapa which was crab meat atop the bread with pieces of crispy think ham. with the next another delicious little morsel. We went to the Santa cruz museum first, which despite there being an El Grecco museum in Toledo, was filled with his work and free of charge. From here we made a few stops and wandered around the Market. Our eventual goal to go into the cathedral, which stayed open when everything else would close down early for siesta, so we saved it until the afternoon. Pat had some suggestions from a friend whonhad studied abroad there and we did our best to head the advise, if finding the tapas bar, getting more drinks and free food counts. We finally made it to the cathedral. This is one of the most famous in Toledo. Toledo, and where I read the phrase "holy Toledo" came from, was a multiple religious community. Here atop it's hill to Eros Christian, Jewish and moorish communities lived in harmony. There is a synagogue and museum here as well, there are streams of Moorish influence and of course christian, which a remarkable cathedral tower in the middle of the town. It is gothic in style. I cannot really describe it, but can show you all when I get home, with my pictures. It was beautiful. There were detailed sculptures across the ceilings and in the center. Again will have to show you. We concluded the day with some marzipan, which are the cookies or dessert known here. They tast like raw cookie dough. They are so good. We caught a bus back to the train station once we got out bags, and arrived for the last train, unbeknownst to us, fifteen minutes before it's departure. And headed to the Madrid airport to spend the night before Pat's early flight. After a freezing cold night on the floor, and no luck getting no information on him changing a flight we reluctantly headed to check in. To my astonishment he got out of line and asked when the office would be open so he could speak to someone about the possibility of changing his flight. Wow. They got there ten minutes later, and it was relatively inexpensive to stay until Tuesday. I was excited. Once it was all straightened out we headed off first thing Saturday morning on a long trio to Portugal, which I I had no information on. Another blind adventure but Pat threw himself right in it again. It was all so much fun. The bus ride was long. We had a forty minute break at a rest stop bar haha. When we arrived in Lisbon I didn't even know exactly where it stood geographically on the map, the train station was huge, and I had no idea where to begin finding out way through the massive city. I heard Porto was a neat city in Portugal. Literally only heard, and could not even recall where from. I saw a train was leaving in five minutes. So after giving Lisbon about a two minute chance I ran urgently to the ticket counter to get a ticket to a city, I thought was just on the other side of the bay and sprinted to a train with Pat. Later we realised that I had us traverse the entire coast of Portugal all the way the the most northern major city. So ridiculous, but well worth the laugh and the visit to the city. Everything about any ones trip is unique and there's. So no matter where you go, what you experience, how you get there and what you see it is always different from someone else's. This was truly our own little random adventure.
We arrived at the first train station in Porto, and had we known, would have gotten on another train with our ticket to get the the downtown area. We didn't however, and we arrived in a shabby ass little dump. I was a little nervous I had heard wrong. We saw some sketchy little dive hotels and I can't believe it, but the thought actually crossed our mind to give up and stay there. I Medes internet. After an entire day of travel after a night on the airport floor and then dragging pat onto another almost three hour train to the middle of no where I had to find something. I found Internet against a wall when we ran into a metro stop and searched hostels. They are usually concentrated in areas where people visit. On the sites they had metro directions and we got ourselves to the downtown area of Porto. Now this was stunning. The cities in Portugal are very classy and wealthy looking in the centres mixed with traditional houses and apartments. Porto was such a beautiful town. We gave up finding a hostel and had a cab drive us around in a circle to get one, which ended up being really nice. It was more like the youth hostels I was used to, so I'm glad pat got to see that. With common rooms, a kitchen, helpful staff and activities from the hostel. We got some pizza and went to bed. We woke up early, and had gained an hour again. We started walking through town looking for suggestions from the guy at our hostel. It is all the historical city between the piazza we we were north going south all the way to the river. We looked for the book store, that is suppose to be one of the most famous in europe and where a lot of scenes from Harry potter were filmed. It was closed but we could peer in and see a little, with the winding staircase. The open pizzas had short royal palm trees and fountains, with of course churches sprinkled throughout. A different style with tiled Walls. Very Portuguese I guess. The streets of the old town were line with apartment buildings of ren, green, blue, yellow beautiful tiled Walls. There were look out points you'd randomly run into at the ends of streets. This city was so unique to many that I had seen before. It was a gorgeous view over the river. Cable cars ran over the top from high above. When we got down to the river there were all sorts of tables and people selling there crafts. They had some of the nicer things ive seen, like actual hand knit scarves, and jewerly. They all sat along the river peacefully, not hassling you as you strolled along and looked. A very nice change of pace. The boats lining the river were replicas of the old wine boats with barrels of wine sitting on there decks. The city is known for it's wine. Some of the best in the world, port wine. These boats probably would have been used to take the grapes a d wine from the eastern side of the river where the vineyards of the wineries in Porto were located in the microclimates of the mountains and valleys. Across from all the river side bars, charming apartments with clothes strewn across all the lines were the wineries and where the old caves were where they stored and barrelled the wine. as you looked up and down the river there were so many cool metal bridges. All different shapes and some standing far higher than others, just weaving down the river. I loved this town. We crossed the bridge to go to the wineries. Here we went to one of the most famous at three. In was taylors and was found in the 1600s I believe. Inside there were tables and chairs made out of old barrels and a circus type ceiling tent. They let us sample a red and White for free. They also had. A fee tour a half an hour later which was very informative. They gave a history of Port wine, most of which I don't remember, but the area was one of the first to bottle and produce wine the way we know it today from wineries, and is renowned as one of the best in the world. The prices reflect this. It is mixed with a liquor and is very sweet due to there attention to detail in the fermentation process, preserving the sweet and strong alcohol content. After one more glass we shared of 20 year old wine over some old cheese, like kid you not, when we wanted to know the name it translated to old cheese, we set of to try to catch the sunset over the ocean. The tourism office lady pointed us to a completely wring bus blatantly. We were lost and assisted by a little old lady who took us to a bus, not speaking a lick of English explained our situation and were carted through town until he pointed out a bus that would take us to Faz, which was the beach as we gathered from what the old lady wrote on the map. Another old man got us on another bus and we were finally after nearly missing the entire sunset on our way. The old people in Portugal are astonishingly nice and helpful haha. We caught the last bit of the bright orange sunset of the Atlantic. It was gorgeous. We then walked along the well decorated sidewalks and down to the beacha little, until we came to the street where we knew would be a straight shot bus ride to our hostel. We were a bit famished after only having our hostel breakfast, a stolen bun and cheese from that and some "very old" cheese with wine. We decided to try a place which was traditional Portuguese as was informed to us by the guy at the hostel. I had a prawn omelette, eggs are common for regular meals, not breakfast, in Spain and Portugal, and pat had a piglet sandwich haha. A bit much for me but a tried. Interesting. We passed out by nine, and woke up with plenty of time to pack and catch the metro right at six for our six forty seven train back to Liboa.
Of course we were running late. The next metro didn't leave for twenty minutes which put us at the same time we were suppose to be there. A mad scramble to find a cab, and made it with a little time to spare, and cheaper than the metro. When we arrived at Liboa oriente where the bus station was connected tothe train station with a half an hour to until our bus left, we didn't get off. We went all the way to the next stop:). With no hope of finding our way to and around on the metro I ran after the conductor from the train we were just on, falling on the steps under the weight of bag back, gaining his attention, and getting the confirmation that, no this train was not going back in the other direction but the trains on the other side of the platform would. We ran to the other side got to the train as the door closed briskly in front of us, got it opened with a second to spare, and headed two more stops in the opposite direction. When we arrived as usually, and keeping with the theme, we caught our bus just in time and set off for the painstaking bus ride back to Madrid, yet again. It went by pretty fast sleeping the entire way, except the first leg to the first rest stop, because our bladders were about to explode from no break between our mad scramble from train to bus. We got our 40 minute bar break, then continued on.
When we got back to Madrid we didn't feel like going straight to the airport so we returned to our old stomping ground to leave our bags at the hostel we had stayed at and wander around the streets a little again. We had our last small cervaza at the cafeteria, where pat finally got to have the cured ham that so appealingly sat behind the glass on top of most of the bars,...sarcasm. It is like a pig jerky. We did a little hop around and got our last kebab for dinner. After we relaxed in the common room at the hostel where I discovered all of my flights had either been changed a day earlier leaving London, which I don't go to until tomorrow, and canceled between Iceland and new York. After seriously contemplating the idea that I could actually possibly be stuck in Europe until the flights were lower than 1500$ in a month or two, pat found me a random last minute Kuwait air flight. Hopefully I get there:). We took off to catch all the last connections on the metro and at 1:02 the last one running to the airport. We settle in nicely on the floor and slept fro. 2 to 5. Pat made it to security and I went to camp out until the metro started running at 6. I came back to the hostel and because it was empty they let me check in for the night at seven for only thirteen bucks. Score. I stayed up to get a free breakfast and passed out until this very moment. It is almost seven and I may try tommake my way to see the Picasso painting, done after he witnessed the nazi bombings ordered under Franco of a civilian town in basque country Spain during the Spanish civil war. The museum is free after 7 and open until ten. Me and pat meant to do this twice. Now on top of this, if I manage to get myself there, I will rub in having a last dinner of 2€ 24 hr pizza. It was fun!
When I go to send this I will see if Leanne wrote me back as to whther or not she is in town so I will stay with her or at least meet up for the night in London, then see if Ian is able to figure a way to his place our for me from JFk, which is a ways from his place, I was suppose to fly Newark originally, and then stay with him Thursday to break up the traveling and hopefully get on a Grey hound home early Friday to Syracuse, on the secondnwhere I expect to see all your excited shining faces.
This was a life changing experience. It restored my faith in people, in myself and all those I love. The world really can be a blissfully beautiful place. Thank you all for your love and support. The things I have been able to see, the trials I have been able to over come and the experiences I have had will have changed me forever. The opportunity to have been able to meet some of the most amazing people and forge lasting friendships with people I genuinely connected with will stand above all else as the most remarkable part of this whole adventure. People of different background and culture who helped open my eyes to something different, deepen my appreciation for life and most of all offer me true and lasting friendship in return. I am humbled by all of these astonishing people. This is something which no price could be put on.
I love you all. Thank you for being with me.
Love,
Sierra
Saturday, November 12, 2011
Paris
In Switzerland now. Had a nice day with my host nicoli touring a bit of geneva. He made extra effort to wander through the parks and gardens. I think he knows I have a burning desire right now to be back in nature. His friend has a shalay in the alps which were meant to go to today but may not until tomorrow. Either way of to the mountains it is for me, whether by bus and foot or deep into the mountains to stay. Geneva is a beautiful little city, by the lake. Massive harbour. I am currently getting serenaded by nicoli's piano now as I write haha. He composes and his friend with the shayla is a Swiss composeer. Now here is a bit about Paris...
Ole' pa'ris. Who ever said the French are rude. I had some of my nicest run ins, and the most help from, French. Even if they don't speak English they will usually help. I honestly didn't see it. Even in the train station they were the most helpful. Unfortunately only first class tickets for over 80 euro to geneve, so I had to go to the third train station of the day to get a train to Lyon, where the connection to geneve overlaps one minute. Hopefully this babies early or that is late. I am couch surfing wi a guy nick and have no way to let him know I will be late. In France I stayed with matt and his flatmate gium. They were so sweet. People really genuinely enjoy this couch surfing. Steve, who I met last night and had recommended me to matt has hosted over 300 people, and did a whole trip around the world with it for a year. He hosts up to like eight people at a time sometimes. It's like a massive party. He and matt used to live together.
When I arrived on friday matt took me down to the city centre where we walked Paris by night. I am really glad I did this. It's a whole different vibe. All the monuments are illuminated and with the near full moon it made everything so picturesque. Also much quieter. It was nice having someone to lead me around again as well. Saw most of the major monument like nitre dame, on the island, walked the river all the way to the louvre. There are big barge like boats, and people live on them just docked on the side of e river in the middle of the city. Strange but great. The bridges are so pretty and the Eiffel tower is lit by night. The first night and the next day the weather was clear and warm. Matts apartment has a gorgeous view, because it is one of the few very tall building in Paris, 12 floors. The eiffel towers lights were all twinkling as they do for just fifteen minutes each evening. The sky line is so charming with all the little smoke stacked roofs. The louvre by night and the arch is really neat with the pyramid and the full moon reflecting on it. We headed back to the neighbourhood near by to have, what we thought was one drink, at the bar where he is good friends with the owner. It turned into a 1 am evening and a rough start to my first day in Paris.
Luckily it was a bright sunny day and I hardly even needed a jacket. There seems to be a consistent theme of me showing up right after bad weather and leaving places right before. Works out for me though, but it is seriously everywhere I go. I should jinx myself I guess. I am looking forward to Switzerland and some hiking. The one host that wasn't available for the weekend let me on to some buses and trails. In geneva I think there is the highest peak of the alps. It should be gorgeous. I'm over this city stuff:). On thursday I went to sacre cour, which is massive and could also be seen from matts apartment. The atmosphere was really neat, with the vendors and people walking. The view at the top of the steps leading up to it is amazing as well. Overlooking the whole city. I met ask a guy from the Netherlands. At least I think. He was a couch surfer too and was wandering around the city until he met up with a friend. We walked and talked. He was very clever and witty, which made him funny entertainment for me. He was there for a job interview. After this lovely sunny morning I took the metro to the arch de triumphe. Very triumphant. Snap snap and back on the metro to the Eiffel tower. It either looks cool from really far away or really up close. In between you just look like your walking towards a hunk of high metal. It was pretty cool still I must say. Not to much to see around it. Got all the way to the steps to walk up but couldn't bring myself to walk up slowly behind a crowd of people. From here I walked back to the louvre along the river, but this time from the other direction that I hadn't seen yet. A lot of great monuments, architecture and views in this city. I arrived at the louvre with only an hour left, but enough time to get the feel of this massive museum, and to see the mona Lisa of course. It is nice going that late and skipping the lines, and the fight to see the famous works of leonardo de Vinci. I could stand, as close as you can get anyways, right in front of the mona Lisa without anyone around.
I was beat after this. I went back to matt and giams where they were preparing to go out for a friends party. We made some dinner together out of what we both had. Giams mother had arrived just before me with her friend from new York city. She is almost sixty and had just completed the new York marathon in 5:15. Pretty incredible. She was so cute an enthusiastic and actual knew a bit of English. It was a great visit and we ended up staying a bit longer than expected at the apartment. I was exhausted by this point but trooped through it. All of there friends were really sweet and Steve was there. A french tv station actually followed him on one of his travels to document how couch surfing works. He's a character. He is extremely involved with it. Hopefully Kate and the other roomies will let me do it until I get back in the boat. Made it back to the apartment for some late night goodies and snacks, and then crashed hard. Full house with the giams family and his brother arriving at 6 am. Did a bit of visiting this morning, although I should of just got the first train out, so I wouldn't be in this predicament of traveling all day again haha. I would have been pretty useless today anyways. That is the only thing with couch surfing is you kind of have to go with the flow and be a trooper. Which is great but exhausting. They get a break after and I move on to the next place and start all over. Switzerland will hopefully be a nice break. Then just. Few more days to see France before my meeting with Pat in Madrid. Ten days in Spain should be a sufficient end to this adventure. Hopefully get into Portugal and southern Spain. Maybe even morocco. Well hopefully get a hold of you all soon. Going to be moving pretty quick to we will see
Ole' pa'ris. Who ever said the French are rude. I had some of my nicest run ins, and the most help from, French. Even if they don't speak English they will usually help. I honestly didn't see it. Even in the train station they were the most helpful. Unfortunately only first class tickets for over 80 euro to geneve, so I had to go to the third train station of the day to get a train to Lyon, where the connection to geneve overlaps one minute. Hopefully this babies early or that is late. I am couch surfing wi a guy nick and have no way to let him know I will be late. In France I stayed with matt and his flatmate gium. They were so sweet. People really genuinely enjoy this couch surfing. Steve, who I met last night and had recommended me to matt has hosted over 300 people, and did a whole trip around the world with it for a year. He hosts up to like eight people at a time sometimes. It's like a massive party. He and matt used to live together.
When I arrived on friday matt took me down to the city centre where we walked Paris by night. I am really glad I did this. It's a whole different vibe. All the monuments are illuminated and with the near full moon it made everything so picturesque. Also much quieter. It was nice having someone to lead me around again as well. Saw most of the major monument like nitre dame, on the island, walked the river all the way to the louvre. There are big barge like boats, and people live on them just docked on the side of e river in the middle of the city. Strange but great. The bridges are so pretty and the Eiffel tower is lit by night. The first night and the next day the weather was clear and warm. Matts apartment has a gorgeous view, because it is one of the few very tall building in Paris, 12 floors. The eiffel towers lights were all twinkling as they do for just fifteen minutes each evening. The sky line is so charming with all the little smoke stacked roofs. The louvre by night and the arch is really neat with the pyramid and the full moon reflecting on it. We headed back to the neighbourhood near by to have, what we thought was one drink, at the bar where he is good friends with the owner. It turned into a 1 am evening and a rough start to my first day in Paris.
Luckily it was a bright sunny day and I hardly even needed a jacket. There seems to be a consistent theme of me showing up right after bad weather and leaving places right before. Works out for me though, but it is seriously everywhere I go. I should jinx myself I guess. I am looking forward to Switzerland and some hiking. The one host that wasn't available for the weekend let me on to some buses and trails. In geneva I think there is the highest peak of the alps. It should be gorgeous. I'm over this city stuff:). On thursday I went to sacre cour, which is massive and could also be seen from matts apartment. The atmosphere was really neat, with the vendors and people walking. The view at the top of the steps leading up to it is amazing as well. Overlooking the whole city. I met ask a guy from the Netherlands. At least I think. He was a couch surfer too and was wandering around the city until he met up with a friend. We walked and talked. He was very clever and witty, which made him funny entertainment for me. He was there for a job interview. After this lovely sunny morning I took the metro to the arch de triumphe. Very triumphant. Snap snap and back on the metro to the Eiffel tower. It either looks cool from really far away or really up close. In between you just look like your walking towards a hunk of high metal. It was pretty cool still I must say. Not to much to see around it. Got all the way to the steps to walk up but couldn't bring myself to walk up slowly behind a crowd of people. From here I walked back to the louvre along the river, but this time from the other direction that I hadn't seen yet. A lot of great monuments, architecture and views in this city. I arrived at the louvre with only an hour left, but enough time to get the feel of this massive museum, and to see the mona Lisa of course. It is nice going that late and skipping the lines, and the fight to see the famous works of leonardo de Vinci. I could stand, as close as you can get anyways, right in front of the mona Lisa without anyone around.
I was beat after this. I went back to matt and giams where they were preparing to go out for a friends party. We made some dinner together out of what we both had. Giams mother had arrived just before me with her friend from new York city. She is almost sixty and had just completed the new York marathon in 5:15. Pretty incredible. She was so cute an enthusiastic and actual knew a bit of English. It was a great visit and we ended up staying a bit longer than expected at the apartment. I was exhausted by this point but trooped through it. All of there friends were really sweet and Steve was there. A french tv station actually followed him on one of his travels to document how couch surfing works. He's a character. He is extremely involved with it. Hopefully Kate and the other roomies will let me do it until I get back in the boat. Made it back to the apartment for some late night goodies and snacks, and then crashed hard. Full house with the giams family and his brother arriving at 6 am. Did a bit of visiting this morning, although I should of just got the first train out, so I wouldn't be in this predicament of traveling all day again haha. I would have been pretty useless today anyways. That is the only thing with couch surfing is you kind of have to go with the flow and be a trooper. Which is great but exhausting. They get a break after and I move on to the next place and start all over. Switzerland will hopefully be a nice break. Then just. Few more days to see France before my meeting with Pat in Madrid. Ten days in Spain should be a sufficient end to this adventure. Hopefully get into Portugal and southern Spain. Maybe even morocco. Well hopefully get a hold of you all soon. Going to be moving pretty quick to we will see
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Amsterdam to utrecht
Amsterdam is a different place. Yoram, the kid I met with Aleks in Scotland came into town to meet me. He thought it necessary. Nice again to not have to think. Right as you walk in from the train station, tacky florescent lights and and coffee shops lining the streets. The red light direct is also down the side alleys and along and behind this strip along the canal. I stayed right in the heart of it. Literally in I went out the back door of the bar connected instead of the front I walked into a line of glass windows with have naked girls. It's interesting, I'll explain later. I checked in to the White tulip, Fu I'd stands were scattered throughout the streets and in the flower markets being the national flower. I walk through the squares like Dom square, the bright shopping streets and to another square where restaurants coffee shop and bars all conveniently locate themselves. We had a bite to eat then I convinced yoram to really wander around the red light district with me. The outskirts near my hostel I didn't mind alone but I wanted to get into the nitty gritty. Fascinating. They really are like telephone booths inside a building with a curtain. If they're at work the curtains are closed, if not they stand against the glass selling themselves. Men stumble in and out. I thought it was a bit gross at first but it is very professional I guess. No kissing or sensuality, just get off and get out. Really exactly the same as if a guy were to have a one night stand. I mean for all he knows she could be just as dirty as a prostitute. If you are alright with one night stands then a prostitute would actually be a more responsible decision in this case. These woman are actually checked regularly, and have there own unions for there business. It is very sterile, with cleaning supplies and condoms provided. Some buildings have been shut down because illegal trafficking had infiltrated, but the whole point of this legality of it was to prevent this sort of crime. You can't really notice many blank spots though. I roamed the streets a bit after yoram left. Checked out what the coffee shops are about. You literally do walk in and there's a menu and you order what youd like. Get a supply or you can just get a joint. Quite interesting as well. Also, tack neon lights pointing out magic mushroom shops. The city is small. Just a few square and spanning outward in a pie shape from there, with old canals running through. This is a common theme of old cities in the Netherlands. They serve little purpose now, besides the people who live in broken down boats in the canal. They have working ladies come in and out too. Kind of like harbour hags. Again really no different then having a random girl go home with you on your boat. A lot like some of the disgusting men in the harbour I live in back that take random girls to the boats. They've convinced themselves that its more morally just then taking them back home when in reality it's exactly the same, and equally as repulsive. I'd hate to be stuck with one of them. Amsterdam in all is a very contrasting city. You still do get the sense that it is primarily touristic, which is why I went to Yoram's town of Utrecht to get a genuine Netherlands experience.
The next morning I set off for some sight seeing. Hit up the Anne Frank house, then wandered around the park a bit....anyways. Then found museum square. Someone at the train on the way in had offered yoram and I his museum cards, so I got in for free to the van gough. It was another typical, paintings on the Walls people contemplating, gallery museum, but there were some of his most famous works and a lot of descriptions about his life. I then just wandered and saw some of the squares, hit up the coffee shops, ate a lot....waffles are so good there with ice cream. Yea baby. I got a walk to the train station by the nice guy working at the hostel, getting off shift, then of to Utrecht, where yoram awaited me in the train station after his work. I'll let you know how that went. And hopefully get along to finishing London. Getting a bit lazy with this I must say
The next morning I set off for some sight seeing. Hit up the Anne Frank house, then wandered around the park a bit....anyways. Then found museum square. Someone at the train on the way in had offered yoram and I his museum cards, so I got in for free to the van gough. It was another typical, paintings on the Walls people contemplating, gallery museum, but there were some of his most famous works and a lot of descriptions about his life. I then just wandered and saw some of the squares, hit up the coffee shops, ate a lot....waffles are so good there with ice cream. Yea baby. I got a walk to the train station by the nice guy working at the hostel, getting off shift, then of to Utrecht, where yoram awaited me in the train station after his work. I'll let you know how that went. And hopefully get along to finishing London. Getting a bit lazy with this I must say
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